#121 Matt Fultz — BIG MOVES small crimps, Long Term Projecting, Video Analysis, Hardest Board Climbs, Throwing Away His Scale, and How He Coaches on OTG

The Testpiece Podcast

You’ve heard of Matt Fultz, but you may not realize just how amazing Matt is. He’s climbed eight V16’s. 8. Eight!
By the way, two of them are rarely repeated and recognized as some of the hardest in the world (Hypnotized Minds and Big Z). He’s FA’d 7 climbs V15 and up, including 2 V15’s in one day!! We’re pretty sure that’s a world’s first, but who’s counting…

Matt has also been coaching for well over a decade and founded Off The Ground coaching (“OTG”), which is one of the most highly respected remote coaching services. Matt is just as passionate about being a coach as he is a climber.

In this episode Matt shares some of his tactics for climbing harder right NOW, how to manage long term projects, how he uses video analysis, what the hardest board climbs in the world are and much much more.

SHOW NOTES:

• Matt Fultz Instagram
• Off The Ground Coaching with Matt
• Wheeler Brothers Testpiece Podcast

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Kapitler

1. Intro (00:00:00)

2. OTG and Climbing Principles (00:10:50)

3. Video Analysis (00:17:37)

4. Matt's Greatest Strength (00:35:54)

5. How Matt Trains Fingers (00:43:30)

6. Hypnotized Minds (00:50:33)

7. Big Z (01:02:11)

8. Board Climbing (01:12:58)

9. Developing/FAs/ID (01:24:14)

10. How to go from Good to Great? (01:42:54)