Following his grueling 145-day solo ascent of Mount Hunter's South East Spur in 1978, Johnny Waterman's life took a troubling turn. As his personal struggles intensified, a new team emerged to attempt the formidable route. Peter Metcalf, Glenn Randall, and Pete Athens set their sights on doing the climb in alpine style. Thanks to Jon Waterman and G…

In 1978, an iconoclastic climber named Johnny Waterman spent 145 days soloing (and traversing) Mount Hunter. It was one of the boldest and strangest mountaineering feats of all time. But what could have been a launch pad into acclaim and prominence, turned into a descent of infamy and madness. Meanwhile, a group of 3 young gun alpinists prepared to…

While working on an upcoming 2-part series, I stumbled onto this interview with Alaskan author and adventurer, Roman Dial. We recorded this back in November 2017 and for some reason, I never got around to publishing it. Roman is a natural storyteller, so I’ve decided to leave this pretty raw with minimal editing. If you enjoy stories of adventure a…

A few months ago I had a conversation with climber, historian, writer and podcast producer, Christian Beckwith. He’s been working on this really incredible project called 90 Pound Rucksack, which details the remarkable history of the 10th Mountain Division and it’s influence on outdoor recreation in America I have to admit, this chat was fun for me…

A few weeks ago I interviewed North American alpinist, Clint Helander, for a deep-dive feature I'm working on for The Firn Line. At the end of the conversation, I wanted to have a little fun. So we did a quick-fire back and forth on what we think the top 5 traits of an alpinist are. It's a short conversation, but it's packed with knowledge and a go…

Will Stanhope is a Squamish-based rock climber, who is known for his free solos, big adventures, and witty sense of humor. All of those avenues are explored in this conversation. We talk about his inspirations as a kid, how he got into climbing, who inspired him as a young climber, his most memorable free solo climbs, his memories of the late Marc …

The Cassin Ridge is the ultimate classic line on Denali, rising almost 10,000 directly up the middle of the South Face. First climbed in 1961 by a large Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin, the route continues to be a testing ground for alpinists to this day. Recorded and produced by Evan Phillips Music curated using Artlist. SUBSCRIBE to The…

During a stretch of amazing weather and conditions in April, 2024, Suzanna Lourie and her partner, Olga Dobranowski, made an ascent of the ultra-classic Ham & Eggs route on The Moose's Tooth. The Moose's Tooth is a rock peak in the Central Alaska Range, 15 miles southeast of Denali. Despite its low elevation, it's a challenging climb due to its lar…

When Fred Beckey and Ed Cooper climbed the Northwest Face on Forbidden Peak in 1959, they had to have known it was a classic route. It had all the features mountaineers look for in a North Cascades alpine climb: an arduous and long approach, tricky navigation over crevasse-laden glaciers, and steep exposed climbing to a sharp pointed summit. Since …

Today, we’ll get to know Seattle-based author, climber, skier, and historian, Lowell Skoog. Lowell is a fixture in the Northwest outdoor scene, and has been exploring mountains in the Pacific Northwest for 60 years. In this conversation, we’ll talk about Lowell’s early years of exploration in the Cascades, some of the folks who’ve inspired him over…

When Jamie Logan and Mugs Stump first ascended Mount Robson's Emperor Face in July 1978, it was hailed as one of North America's greatest alpine climbs. Since then, the face has continued luring some of the world's best climbers, maintaining it's reputation as one of North America's most enduring alpine walls. Written and produced by Evan Phillips …

Begguya - Mount hunter - at 14,537 feet tall - a massif that is dominated in scale by its neighbors Sultana and Denali - but a mountain that dominates the minds and hearts of many a mountaineer. And this was the case for Alaskan alpinist Clint Helander in the spring of 2021 when on a hunch, he called August Franzen - a young Alaskan climber who’d b…

In the summer of 1995, John Climaco and Andrew Brash were young dirtbag alpinists looking for the adventure of a lifetime. The duo certainly got that and more when they flew to Pakistan for an attempt on Chogolisa (7,665 m / 25,148 ft). Turns out, the climb was only a small part of the journey. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Notes Spec…

For mountaineers and adventurers, there’s a rich history of exploration in and around Alaska's Denali National Park. And although the park is mostly known for the hordes of people who attempt to climb Denali each season - few have ever thought about circumnavigating the Denali, Foraker (Sultana) and Hunter (Begguya) massifs - let alone in winter. T…

You know that saying - “they just don’t make em’ the way they used to”. I guess you could call it a quintessential American expression. In the climbing world, It conjures up icons like Lynn Hill, Jim Bridwell, Catherine Freer, and Royal Robbins - just to name a few. You know you have someone like that in your life. It’s someone who’s tough. They ha…

Today we head into the Kichatna Spires - a compact subrange of monolithic granite towers located just south of Denali. In early June, North American climbers Graham Zimmerman, Dave Allfrey and Whit Magro, headed into the Kichatna’s - their sites set on a new line up the beautiful northwest face of the ranges namesake - Kichatna Spire. Although many…

Notes Produced by Evan Phillips Editing & Sound Design by Pod Peak Support The Firn Line Patreon PayPal Merch Sponsors Alaska Rock Gym The Hoarding MarmotAf Brian Harder, Evan Phillips

The western Chugach - the mountains surrounding Anchorage and the Mat-su valley to the east, are a veritable playground for hikers and climbers. Although the rock is predominantly poor in quality, the peaks are striking, sometimes rising 5,000 from the valley floor, with a variety of snow and ice lines penetrating their faces. Historically, these p…

Call me old school, but nothing gets me more fired up than adding a new adventure, climbing or mountaineering book to the collection. So I was excited last month, when Valley Of Giants: Stories From Women at The Heart of Yosemite Climbing, arrived at my doorstep. This anthology, edited and curated by Lauren DeLaunay Miller, is a collection of 39 st…

This month’s trip report takes place in one of Alaska’s most remote and mythical mountain ranges: The Revelations. First explored in the late 60’s by David Roberts and friends, The Revelations hold a mystique, and reputation, that has continued to grow over the years. The range, which is nestled between the southwest tip of The Alaska Range, and th…

Af Evan Phillips, Vasu Sojitra

They say that Alaska is a place of extremes. This ranges from the stark changing of the seasons, to the scale of the wilderness landscapes, and of course, the size of the monolithic mountains. But it also applies to the races - and I’m not talking about Nascar. There’s the Iditarod - a grueling 950 mile dog sled race from Anchorage to Nome, that tr…

It was the summer of 1996. At the time, I was 21 years old, living in a primitive cabin in the small fishing village of Ninilchik, Alaska. That summer, I’d landed a job working as a park ranger assistant for Alaska State Parks, and although I’d like to say I was doing something cool like building trails, the reality is that I was cleaning gnarly ou…

The good folks from Big Horn County, truckers, and the Playboy himself come under fire in this week's episode. Will all the babies burn in hell? Will the sexy massage therapists of Montana live to tug another day? Tune in and find out! Ennnnjoy it! Download HERE!Af Dan and Mandy

Adam Gellman, a young glacier guide, tells the story of his adventures on an obscure (but challenging) Alaskan peak called Mt. Wickersham. This Trip Report is made possible with the gracious support of The Firn Line Patreon backers. To learn more about how you can become a Patreon subscriber, go to The Firn Line Patreon. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••…

It's February and we're dead inside. We chatted about the worst sorts of people (the ones in the grocery store), a virgin who made a big mistake, the ghost ship of the Platte River, and oh so much more! Enjoy it!!! https://www.mediafire.com/file/r3br45qi34kz9wj/272firnecastfinal.mp3Af Dan and Mandy

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know rock climber, big-wall soloist and AMGA certified rock climbing guide, Miranda Oakley. Growing up in Maryland, Miranda learned from a young age the values of compassion, teaching, and working with others. Born to a Palestinian mother, and an American father, Miranda grew in a family that cared …

Hey Firn Line fans, this is Evan, and I wanted to tell you about a new monthly series I’m launching called The Trip Report. Storytelling is an integral part of human nature - and climbing and adventure stories are no exception. There’s nothing better than sitting around a campfire on a crisp, desert night - listening to a friend share a story of ad…

When people think of ice climbing in North America, the first places that might come to mind are Ouray, Colorado, Hyalite Canyon outside Bozeman, Montana - or the vast alpine region of the Canadian Rockies, just to name a few. But perhaps the ultimate mecca for pure frozen waterfall climbing, is in and around Valdez, Alaska. This temperate region, …

Hey friends! We're back? Yes, we're back! This week we're just sliding our way into that sweet, sultry podcast groove with some random chitty chat about nothing and everything all at once. Our 2021 sucked just about as much as yours, but we're ready to kick it in the nuts and keep on moving. Even if 2022 sucks too, at least you can spend it with yo…

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary mountaineer, outdoor adventurer, author and conservationist, Rick Ridgeway. I first learned about Rick back in the early 90’s, when I read his mountaineering classic, The Last Step, which details the 1978 first American ascent of K2. Rick was an early hero of mine, as I admired his te…

The mountain ranges of North America are beautiful and diverse. From the prominent glacier cones that dominate the skylines of the Pacific Northwest, to the rugged granite plutons of Yosemite Valley, to the sawtooth razor points of the Tetons, the mountains of North America are a veritable playground for mountaineers. But for climbers and alpinists…

It’s easier to stay alive if you know what’s out there. Whether it’s understanding local climate patterns, snow conditions, or predators that inhabit certain areas. Having even a basic understanding of what lies ahead, can be the difference between having a great day out, and not coming home at all. And that’s the philosophy behind Emma Walker’s De…

THIS WAS PRE-RECORDED IN 2020 SO WE TALK ABOUT THAT A LOT, NO NEED TO POINT IT OUT OR ANYTHING, WE ALREADY KNOW. WE ARE ALL JUST DOING OUR BEST OUT HERE, OKAY? If there's anything we've learned about this past year, it's that 2020 is a toilet snake, just waiting to bite you in the vagina (or penis). Thus, we present you with a very special all-toil…

On today’s episode of The Firn LIne, we’ll get to know climber, alpinist and author, Kelly Cordes. I first heard of Kelly back in the mid-90’s when I started seeing his name speckled across the pages of publications like Climbing and Rock and Ice. Over the years, I watched from afar as he made gutsy first ascents in the Alaska Range and beyond - al…

In this episode of The Firn Line, I check in with author and climber, Chris Kalman. I first met Chris after reading his excellent book, As Above So Below and since then we’ve stayed in touch, connected through climbing and creativity. So I was excited when Chris announced a Kickstarter to help finish up his new novella, Dammed if you don’t. Dammed …

Oh hey, it's Election Day in America! So we decided to sit down and ramble a bit on all manner of topics- QAnon is the sexy new Satanic Panic, eating the rich, conspiracy theorists and their love of all things racist and anti-semitic, old lady crevices, and oh so much more! Join us and chase away those election day butterflies! Enjoyyyy it!!!! Down…

The Snow Coffin Evan tells the story of a 1996 winter attempt, harrowing bivouac, and narrow escape from a remote Alaskan mountain. The Ghost Of Aconcagua Mountain endurance athlete Sunny Stroeer tells her tale of completing the first female solo speed-circumnavigation and ascent of Aconcagua, only to have a run-in with the fabled "ghost of Aconcag…

A young Alaskan alpinist, August Franzen, shares his story of climbing through life-changing love, and heart-wrenching grief. Links: The Devil's Thumb (AAJ) Mt. Burkett (Alpinist ) The Firn Line (Website) Patreon Sponsors: Alaska Rock Gym The Hoarding Marmot Declination RoastingAf August Franzen, Evan Phillips

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know climber, skier, high-school teacher and coach, Eddie Taylor. Eddie grew up in different parts of the country. As a youth, he spent time in New Mexico, where he first learned how to ski. It was these formative experiences, alongside trips to National Parks, that instilled a deep reverence and lo…

Today’s episode is a story about adventure. It’s a story about getting scared. It’s a story of friendship and love. It’s a story about self-discovery and learning from your mistakes. But the learning in this story doesn’t take place in a formal classroom, or an online forum. Rather, It takes place in the mountains - in a small sub-range of striking…

I first met Tom Sardy in the summer of 1998. My recollection is that I was camped under the granite towers of Archangel Valley in Hatcher Pass, when my friend Zach arrived, with Tom in tow, for a day of rock climbing. Zach and I had met just a few months prior, when we’d spent three weeks guiding clients up the west buttress of Denali. We’d become …

This week we mostly talked about the 80's movie classic The Beastmaster... The fetishes born from it, the weird black tiger, the super inappropriate family relationships, and oh so much more! Join us for some belly laughs and forget your cares for awhile. Download HERE!Af Dan and Mandy

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know northwest based artist and mountain guide - Craig Muderlak. I first got to know Craig through his amazing illustrations in Chris Kalman’s excellent book, As Above, So Below. His work is emotional and moody - but also uplifting and joyful at the same time. If you’ve spent time in the mountains -…

Oh, hello! Here's a show for you after our long absence! We caught up on all the doin's in our lives & this godforsaken country. We've missed you! Hope you enjoooy it! Download HERE!Af Dan and Mandy

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary North American alpinist, Steve Swenson. Over the course of a climbing career that has spanned a remarkable 50 years, Steve has left a lasting imprint on the world stage of alpinism, from his roots in the Pacific Northwest, all the way to the 7 and 8,000 meter giants of the Himalaya, a…

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know world-renowned climber and author, Margo Talbot. Growing up on the east coast of Canada in New Brunswick, Margo was raised in what she describes as a chaotic family environment. It was this environment, often devoid of love and compassion, that led Margo to start dreaming of a new life. But as …

Last week I sat down for a remote chat with Valdez, Alaska-based ice climber, Ryan Sims. Ryan is an Engineer with the Valdez Fire Department, but when he’s not putting out fires, both literally and figuratively, he’s part of a new generation of crushers in the ice mecca of Valdez and Thompson Pass, where some of the best ice climbing in North Ameri…

When you record two episodes in a row, people end up drinking too much. People like Dan & Mandy. We talked weird news, we talked nonsense. It was fun & I hope you ennnnjoyyyy it! Download HERE!Af Dan and Mandy

A check in with The Firn Line community during the Covid-19 pandemic. These conversations and clips were gathered between March 22-28, 2020. Stay safe and be well - Evan Music by Evan Phillips Support the show at Patreon Sponsors: Alaska Rock Gym The Hoarding Marmot Declination RoastingAf Evan Phillips